Originally published in Silver Kris magazine, December 2004.
24 hours in Los Angeles
A quick guide to the fast action in the City of Angels
by Will Kern
Los Angeles is the glamour
capital of the world, with its
star-studded movie
premieres, black tie awards
ceremonies (* sniff * I would
like to thank the Academy…),
and endless celebration of
magic and fantasy.

Los Angeles is one of the
most diverse cities in
America, a myriad of class
enclaves and ethnic
neighborhoods.  It’s movie
stars, sure, but it’s also real
estate agents,
beachcombers, maids,
cowboys, and illegal aliens.  
It’s donut shops, fatburger
joints, used book stores,
army navy supply houses,
churches and hospitals.  In
short, it’s the sum of every
thing American, from the
sublime to the ordinary, yes,
and the idiotic as well.  

It’s possible you’ll see a
movie star or two, but even
if you don’t, there are literally
hundreds of things to keep
you amused in this
entertainment capital.

Time Off

Hollywood Highland
Complex,
Hollywood Blvd.
and Highland Ave.,
323/469-8311,
http://www.
hollywoodchamber.net
What was once run down
and dangerous is morphing
into upscale and trendy.  
This area’s attractions
include Grauman’s Chinese
Theater, where seven
generations of movie stars
have left their hands and
footprints in cement outside
in the Forecourt of the Stars;
the Kodak Theater, now the
permanent home of the
Academy Awards; and the
Walk of Fame, which has
over 2,000 brass stars
embedded in pink and
charcoal terrazzo squares
laid into the boulevard’s
sidewalks to honor past
and present entertainment
personalities.

The Getty Center
1200 Getty Center Drive,
310/440-7300,
http://www.getty.edu   
Opened in 1997, this
dramatic hilltop campus has
quickly become the city’s
premiere museum.  The J.
Paul Getty Museum collects
and exhibits Greek and
Roman antiquities; European
paintings, drawings,
manuscripts, sculpture,
decorative arts; and
European and American
photographs.  It also offers
a range of special exhibitions
and educational programs.  

The Pantages Theatre,
6233 Hollywood Blvd,
323/468-1700
One of the city’s premiere
live theater and concert
venues, this stunning art
deco movie palace opened
in the Roaring 20s and was
refurbished four years ago
to the tune of US $10 million
to house Disney’s hit
Broadway musical, The Lion
King.  This month catch the
touring production of Les
Miserables, now through
January 2, 2005.  

Muscle Beach
Ocean Front, Venice,
310/399-2775
Everything Southern
California has been accused
of being, this place is.  
Known as “the birthplace of
the hard body,” this open-air
gym is where muscleheaded
guys and gals come to pump
iron and flash flesh.  Don’t
forget to check out the
eccentrics of Venice Beach
and the Ferris wheel at
nearby Santa Monica Pier.  

California Science Center
700 State Dr., 323/724-3623,

http://www.casciencectr.org
Billing itself as “the West
Coast’s largest hands-on
science center,” this museum
specializes in “edutainment”
for kids to experience
science close up.  Its many
exhibits include a bicycle that
can be ridden across a cable
three stories high and a
motion-based simulator in the
Air and Space Gallery.  And
for a peak into the inner
workings of the intestines,
check out the “digestive track
in action” at the Digestive
Diner.

Grand Central Market
317 S. Broadway,  
213/624-2378,
www.grandcentralsquare.com
In the heart of LA’s Historic
Core District, this charming
old-world food market is one
of the coolest places in the
city.  It’s aisle upon aisle of
sights, scents, flavors, and
historic neon signs, giving
the impression of stepping
back in time.  Lots for the
palette too, like teriyaki,
Thai, tacos, and tamales,
plus fresh produce and
meats.  

NBA Basketball
Staples Center,
1111 S. Figueroa St.,
213/742-7100
www.nba.com
This is not supposed to be
a banner year for the either
the Kobe Bryant-led LA
Lakers or Elton Brand’s LA
Clippers, but both teams are
in town this month for a total
of fifteen games, and a ticket
can be had for as little as
$US10, so it’s worth seeing
for any basketball diehards
out there.  Top ticket prices,
by the way, are US$2,000
a shot.

Shopping

Rodeo Drive
,
Beverly Hills, between
Wilshire Blvd. and Little
Santa Monica Blvd.
 
This three-block strip is the
most famous and probably
the most expensive shopping
district in the world.  Oil
sheiks’ wives and movie
stars shop here, hardly
anybody else can afford
to.  A great place if you
don’t mind paying
US$15,000 for a suit.

Melrose Avenue,
Melrose Ave. between La
Brea and Fairfax
The exact opposite of the
Rodeo Drive scene, this
1.6 km long strip is for the
purple-Mohawk, pierced-
nose-and-lip crowd, with its
CD stores, comedy clubs,
beer bars, and off the wall
clothing emporiums with
names like A Star Is Worn,
Retail Slut, Warbabies, and
Wacko.

Antique Row,
2200 Sunset Blvd., Echo
Par
k. Captivating row of
shops with rich and varied
collection of antiques, tile,
pottery, and Americana.  
Third Street Promenade,
Third St. between Broadway and
Wilshire, Santa Monica
310/393-7593
A very good place to walk-and-
shop, this three-block stretch
has been sealed off for
pedestrian traffic.  Features
quaint architecture, huge chain
bookstores, the requisite retail
clothing outlets, and talented
street performers.

Meltdown Comics &
Collectibles
7522 Sunset Blvd.
323/851-7283
http://www.meltcomics.com
Looking for a cool Spiderman T-
shirt that nobody else has?  Or
vintage Japanese toy robots?  
Or European graphic novels?  
It’s all here in this comic lover’s
paradise.

Suss Design
7350 Beverly Blvd.
323/954-9637
http://www.sussdesign.com
Creative design and impressive
craftsmanship mark these pricey
but unique handmade knits.  Lots
to choose from, including leg
warmers, over the shoulder
sweater dresses, multi-colored
ponchos, and cashmere scarves.

Wine and Dine

Top End
Yamashiro
1999 N. Sycamore Ave.
323/466-5125
Built in 1914, this Japanese
restaurant nestled in the
Hollywood Hills boasts excellent
cuisine and a breathtaking view
of the city.  And here’s a bit of
weird trivia: its 600-year-old
pagoda, imported from Japan in
1914, is the oldest building in
California!

Spago
176 N. Canon Dr.
310/385-0880
Wolfgang Puck’s upscale bar
and restaurant featuring tasty
California culinary and Austrian
dishes.  Favorites include
smoked-salmon pizza and beef
stew with spaetzle.  Expect to pay
$70 to $110 for two.  
Reservations essential.  

Mid Price
La Boheme
8400 Santa Monica Blvd.,
323/848-2360
Feeling romantic?  This is the
perfect place to take your
sweetie, with its lush, cavernous
Gothic interior, huge roaring
fireplace, sparkling crystal
chandeliers, and crushed velvet
curtains.  The food is great, but
who cares?  This is place is all
about staring into your lover’s
eyes…

Figaro Café
1804 N. Vermont Ave.
323/662-2874
This immaculately recreated Left
Bank brassiere will take you back
to 1930s Paris.  French cuisine,
Gallic wine list, with sidewalk
tables and adjoining bakery.

Cheap Eats
Chicken Delight
6327 Hollywood Blvd.
323/465-7166
Run by a friendly Thai woman
named Ji, this place serves up
the best fried chicken in LA.  
Delivery available.

Ma Dang Sae
901 S. Vermont Ave.
213/381-9292
 
Order the all-you-can-eat Korean
BBQ, called
ko ja jang, for
US$14.50.  They bring out plates
of meat and veggies and you grill
it at your table.  Excellent.  One
of LA’s best kept secrets.

Nightlife

Sunset Strip
Sunset Blvd. between Crescent
Heights and Doheny Dr.
 
This 2.73 km stretch of road is
famous for its gigantic billboards
that jut into the skyline and its
fog of nightclubs like the Viper
Room and House of Blues.

Frolic Room
6245 Hollywood Blvd.
323/462-5890
One of the city’s most notable
watering holes, famous for its Al
Hirschfeld mural and laid back
ambiance.  Is said to have one of
the best jukeboxes in the world –
yes, that’s right, THE WORLD!

The Cinegrill at the Roosevelt
Hotel
7000 Hollywood Blvd.
323/466-7000
Top-notch jazz and cabaret acts
play weekly at this prime LA
music dig.  And the historic
Roosevelt Hotel is a good
place just to wander around in.

The Dresden Room
1760 N. Vermont Ave.
323/665-429
4
Kitsch reigns supreme at this
restaurant and bar featuring
lost-in-the-70s lounge act Marty
and Elaine.  Try a Manhattan,
the house specialty, and if
you’re eating, order the escargot
drenched in butter or the
out-of-this-world rack of lamb.  

Grand Star
933 N. Broadway
213/626-2285
This cheesy-hip Chinatown
hangout for rollicking regulars
and tipsy tourists has karaoke
weeknights until 2:00 a.m. and
a sing-along jazz band on
weekends.

Cat & Fiddle Pub
6530 Sunset Blvd.
323/468-3800
A favorite hang for Brit ex-pats
and rockers.  Smokers can feel
free to puff away on the pub’s
large outdoor patio.

Skybar
8440 Sunset Blvd.
323/848-6025
An elegant, outdoor bar with a
nice view, a pool, and lots of
comfy chairs.  Drinks start at
* gulp * US$9!
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Essentials:

Visa:
 Requirements vary,
check with your local
American embassy.
Currency:  US$
Phone Code:  1+ area code
and local number.
Tipping:  Waiters and
waitresses get 15% to 20%
depending on the service,
porters and bellboys get
US$1 per bag, taxi drivers get
spare change and maybe a
buck or two extra for a longer
ride.
Airport Transfers:  A taxi
downtown costs US$38 plus
tip.  Other fares depend on
the destination.  For
information on taxi service,
with a link to taxis serving
LAX, click
here.  Information
on shared ride vans, long
distance vans and scheduled
buses, also with a link to
companies serving LAX, is
here.  Public transportation is
available and inexpensive but
goes through a dodgy part of
the south side and is not
recommended.  Go to
http://www.mta.net for details.  
Best bet is to rent a car at
one of the many rental car
kiosks.
Shopping hours:  Generally
10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Getting there:  SIA has
direct flights to and from
Singapore to LAX three times
daily.